Eataly: Inside the Bay Area's vast temple of Italian food and drink

2022-06-10 20:05:23 By : Ms. Stella Dong

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Roman-style pizza is available by the slice at Eataly at Westfield Valley Fair in San Jose.

The outdoor dining area at Eataly’s Terra, where everything is cooked on a wood-burning grill.

The wood-burning pizza ovens at La Pizza & La Pasta restaurant in Eataly Silicon Valley.

A margherita pizza and spaghetti al pomodoro are among the dishes that will be served at Eataly’s La Pizza & La Pasta.

Welcome to Eataly, where gold-gleaming pizza ovens burn at 900 degrees, cheese is made fresh daily in a mozzarella lab and an entire floor is devoted to Italian wines.

In other words, it’s Italian food heaven, and it’s finally here. The epic, three-story Italian food hall’s first Bay Area location opens at the Westfield Valley Fair mall in San Jose at 5 p.m. on June 16. If the yearslong anticipation is any indication, there will likely be throngs of people waiting in line. With two restaurants, a cafe, gelato shop, bakery, butcher, seafood counter and market stocked with thousands of imported Italian goods, there is no other food hall like it in Northern California.

This marks the eighth U.S. location and 41st location worldwide for Eataly. Its first store opened in Torino, Italy, in 2007.

The Chronicle got a first look inside the Bay Area Eataly. Here’s everything you need to know to navigate the vast temple to Italian cuisine.

Daniel Everhart, fresh pasta manager, makes pasta at Eataly Silicon Valley in the Westfield Valley Fair mall on Wednesday, June 8, 2022.

There are seven places to grab a meal or a snack.

The top floor is home to two of Eataly’s standard restaurants. Head to La Pizza & La Pasta for Neopolitan pizza that cooks in 90 seconds in those massive wood-burning ovens as well as fresh pasta.

The menu hasn’t been finalized, but it will be similar to other locations. Expect snacks like arancini and roasted peppers with house-made burrata; and pizzas topped with buffalo mozzarella, 18-month aged Parmigiano-Reggiano and prosciutto. Many kinds of pasta are made fresh at Eataly, but the kitchen also uses dried pasta from Gragnano, a small coastal town in the Campania region known as Italy’s dried pasta capital. The 210-seat modern restaurant has its own outdoor terrace.

The rooftop bar at Terra, one of two restaurants at Eataly’s first Bay Area location.

On the other side is Terra, where everything is cooked on a wood-burning grill: tomatoes, steak, broccolini, bigeye tuna. Don’t miss the grilled Pugliese-style skewers, like a meaty combination of pork, mortadella and provolone. The 180-seat restaurant has an indoor-outdoor feel thanks to hanging plants and floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto a rooftop terrace. (There’s also an outdoor lounge here with its own menu, geared toward grabbing a casual drink and snack.)

Down on the first floor are Eataly’s more casual food options. Dino Borri, Eataly’s global vice president of brand partnerships, said the company wants this area to evoke the feel of an Italian piazza. Grab an espresso from the coffee bar (Eataly uses Italian Lavazza beans) and a cannoli that’s filled to order. A gelato counter will eventually boast as many as 20 flavors, made fresh daily with Straus Family Creamery milk, Italian pistachios and local produce like strawberries from Watsonville’s Tomatero Farm. Or sip on a glass of Italian wine with slices of Roman-style pizza dolloped with burrata. There’s indoor and outdoor seating.

A market is stocked with thousands of specialty Italian products, many hard to find in the U.S.

For food obsessives, Eataly’s third-floor market might be the most exciting draw. Shelves are packed with everything you need to make an Italian feast at home: regional dried pastas, tinned fish, sauces, an entire wall of olive oil, amaretti cookies. Many of the products used in the restaurant kitchens are sold here, from the prized Gragnano pasta to jarred tomatoes grown on a farm in southern Italy. (You can re-create a La Pizza & La Pasta pasta dish at home thanks to the same fresh pasta and pints of sauces sold here.) A bakery churns out loaves nearly 24 hours a day using a 50-year-old mother yeast from Italy and stone-ground flour.

Eataly’s wide selection of cheeses and salumi.

Fridges are stocked with an astounding variety of imported cheeses and cured meats. You’ll find 10 kinds of Parmigiano-Reggiano, more than 40 kinds of Italian salumi and prosciutto from all five DOPs (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta, or protected designation of origin). Peek into the glass-walled cheese lab to watch employees make mozzarella, burrata and stracciatella (the gooey soft insides of burrata) for the market and restaurants.

Molly Oliverio, head of fresh product operations, makes mozzarella at Eataly in the Westfield Valley Fair mall in San Jose on Wednesday, June 8, 2022.

Good news for people who live farther away or don’t want to wait in line: Eataly will offer grocery delivery as far north as South San Francisco. Representatives said they hope to see “robust” delivery business at this location in particular.

For the first time at Eataly, an entire floor is devoted to wine.

The entire second floor of Eataly’s Bay Area location is devoted to Italian wine.

Shelves stocked with over 1,200 wine labels stretch to the ceiling inside Eataly’s wine shop on the second floor. Everything is imported from Italy, from small-production sparkling wine to Lambrusco and a wide selection of Barolo. Bottles range from $20 all the way up to $1,000 for rare wines stored in a temperature-controlled room. There’s also a small selection of liquors — grappa, amaro, limoncello — and local beers.

Eataly will offer daily wine tastings. Best of all, customers can order a glass of wine and bring it upstairs to sip while they grocery shop.

While this is an Italian food mecca, there’s also an emphasis on Bay Area products.

Eataly’s butcher counter will sell a range of meat, from marinated chickens to high-end beef.

Borri said Eataly was drawn to the Bay Area in particular because of its “wealth of food biodiversity.” When the company can’t import something from Italy, it will fill the gaps with local goods. The meat counter is stocked by Oakland’s Cream Co. Meats — expect everything from marinated, spatchcocked chickens to pricey A5 Wagyu beef — and a seafood counter will sell local spot prawns and Dungeness crab. Cheeses from Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co., Cowgirl Creamery and Laura Chenel share space in the fridges with Italian options. A small produce section will sell vegetables from Bay Area farms like Spade & Plow in Gilroy.

Eataly. Opening 5 p.m. June 16. See website for hours for each section. Westfield Valley Fair, 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd., San Jose. eataly.com/us_en/stores/silicon-valley

Elena Kadvany is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: elena.kadvany@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @ekadvany

Elena Kadvany joined The San Francisco Chronicle as a food reporter in 2021. Previously, she was a staff writer at the Palo Alto Weekly and its sister publications, where she covered restaurants and education and also founded the Peninsula Foodist restaurant column and newsletter.